Monsoon . . . .

. . . well, that's what it feels like today. Twelve straight hours of heavy rain; flash-flood warnings, and no sign of the downpour letting up. After a very exciting day yesterday four-wheeling through miles of wild and wacky dirt and boulder trails, finding the Green Sand Beach, realizing we had to climb down a cliff to get there (!!!), enjoying a gorgeous afternoon sunning and bodysurfing, we started our trek home and the rains start.

Lightning in the distance over the far mountains got closer and closer and louder and louder. The rain came in spurts, building as we drove up the coast from the Southernmost point in the United States to our little village of Pahala.

During a lull in the weather, Gary started a fire in the outdoor lava rock grill at the house while Morgan and I concocted a very special marinade for the chicken--soy sauce, island honey, pineapple, and garlic. Try it, it's amazingly good!

Gary slapped the chicken onto the grill and down came the rain; he stalwartly stayed out there, umbrella covering the grill, until all the grilling was done: twelve pieces of chicken, romaine lettuce, and fresh pineapple rings. The rain did not let up. He came in soaked but successful and the dinner, which also included garlicky green beans, was super delicious.

A plus with the rain is that the Jeep is a lot cleaner than when we arrived last night after our cross-country trek. We had so much fun, yet there were quite a few stressful moments when we considered walking--sraight up runs where only sky was visible as we climbed a very steep incline or red dirt where all we saw were boulders and mud. Inside the jeep, we were rolled around like dice in a gambler's hand. Yeehaw!

I was never so happy to arrive at a destination, but THEN, much to my chagrin, the Green Sand Beach was as the bottom of a very long drop in the bowl of Mahala Bay. Very picturesque and very green, but we had to climb down--yikes! Strapping our bags onto our backs, we made our way downn the "steps" into the bowl--ended up not being as harrowing as it looked from above, but STILL.

After a great lunch of tomato, cucumber, cheese, and avocado sandwiches on the amazing sweet bread they have here, the frolicking began. Much bodysurfing was done by the group while I totally enjoyed protecting the shoreline from pirate marauders and sharks. A few green turtles poked their heads up out of the water to see what was going on.

It was a terrific day by anybody's standards. We cursed the guidebook that called this area a "mild natural curiosity." Phooey on them! Just wait until I write my retaliatory notes. En garde!

Le Tour Eiffel on a Very Windy Day

Forty-four years ago, I visited the Eiffel Tower with my parents. I was six years old. Even though we only got to the second level that day, I felt on top of the world. Forty-four years later, I am back again. Today, I will ascend to a higher level and feel the Parisian wind on my face and look out on this most romantic city.

As I stood in line for my ticket, I was surrounded by many people speaking many different languages; Spanish, African, German, Dutch, Italian, Indian. My ticket allowed me to stop on all three levels; level 1 had a tourist shop, a restaurant, and a special post office where you could get cards stamped with "Paris Eiffel Tower"; the second floor had more shops (food and tourist), the very expensive and hard to get into Jules Verne Restaurant; and the third floor had the most amazing views (though very windy), and some historical information about the tower.

The Eiffel Tower was built in 1889 for the Paris Exposition and designed by French structural engineer Alexandre Gustave Eiffel (b. Dec. 15, 1832, d. Dec. 28, 1923). Quite a few Parisians at the time thought the tower was a travesty and signed a petition to stop its construction. Luckily, many Parisians did like it and it stayed. After later failed attempts to have it taken down, it has now become on of the most important symbols of Paris.

At the top level, I left the elevator and walked to the edge and looked out at the city. I could see so many landmarks from there: the Notre Dame, the Sacre Couer up and away on its hill in Montmartre, the Arc de Triomphe, the radical new Musée du quai Branly, and the Seine and its bevy of tourboats and barges.

As I walked around the top, the power of the wind increased; on the far side, the wind was so strong that it surprised a man and picked the hat off his head and pushed it through the protective grillwork and sent it sailing out over the city. Wonder where it is now?

As I made my way back down to the lower levels, I stopped to get postcards from one shop and picked up some Eiffel Tower statues at another. I realized I was hungry and walked back the same way I had come; ended up at a small café called "Oh!…Pouvrier."The server was not very friendly, but I was able to order and enjoyed my meal. An older French woman came in and was seated two small tables away and we began chatting. I apologized for my minimal French, but she said she was happy to practice her English. We spoke about the food and Parisian life and then a little about the economy. She was helpful when I said I wanted to take my leftovers with me; seems this is an unusual request in France and the servers were not willing to help me. So, I sat a little longer, ate slowly and finished most of the food. I also learned afterwards that the service is already included in the bill; I'm sure the server was surprised by the extra tip because she never cracked a smile for me.

On the way back to the apartment around 4pm. Decided to stop by the cheese shop where I found some beautiful brie and a goat cheese, the bread shop for my baguette and two croissants, the butcher's for a roasted chicken (without feathers!!!!), and the vegetable and fruit stand so that I could make myself a nice dinner in the evening.I went home and feasted, already planning the next day's walking tour around Montparnasse.

Adieu for Now (October 2008)

originally written on Sunday, October 12, 2008

This is the last BLOG I will post for at least two weeks; I have decided not to take my laptop to Paris. It will be a bit strange to not know at a moment's notice what everyone is doing or says they're doing. Or to get an electronic invite to a great night of music or an interesting play.

I am hoping that the internet cafes are way too expensive for me to get my fix while I'm gone, too. I need to step away from the screen and live fully.

That said, I get so much out of my various BLOGs' comments and those who do the commenting. The amazing support I've received during my learning time has made the transition to beautiful time just superb.

It's been a great month since I decided to make this trip; things that were hanging on a precipice have finally disappeared over the edge, never to raise their ugly heads again. I had been holding onto a lot of negativity in my life and finally, they were no more. It is such a blessing! Granted, because of that, some dynamics among friends and family have changed, too. Old and new friends have kept me calm and my new mantra is "Imagine the possibilities!" It's all as it should be.

Emily, Tim, and I finished our redemption song and it was sung at the Bistro to a good crowd. I hope Emily will sing it again while I'm gone and that she has huge standing-room-only crowds for the next two Tuesday nights.Speaking of music, as I sit by my window writing this, I am also listening to The Transmitters (a local reggae-ish band) playing at a restaurant right across the street on Sophia. Quite a crowd has gathered as the weather could not be more perfect. Though they do not know it, it's a lovely sendoff for my trip.

I'm still a bit shaky as I ponder the logistics of the trip; getting to and from the airport, through all the rigamarole of customs and baggage pickup. Then I get to decide whether to spend a huge amount of Euros to get a cab to the apartment or take a bus and then the metro. I'm trying to keep my bags to a minimum so that taking these forms of transportation will be doable, but I'm having some trouble. Which shoes to leave behind? Do I really need the heavy coat or will just a lined raincoat be sufficient? (As of today's weather report, it is going to be cloudy for a few days and then rainy. Ahhhh! All the more reason just to relax in a cafe for hours.)

I will learn a lot on this trip. I will make new friends, find new second-hand shops, great cafes, and the best places to get bread and cheese in the 15th. I do not expect that any huge revelations will come to me on this trip; I don't want any pressure on myself to come away with experience away and above from just sensual experiences. My joy at opening the door to a bakery will be sublime as I inhale the aroma of fresh-baked bread. My senses will be awakened to good French wine and cheeses I've never even heard the names of before.

I will be visiting sites and museums and possibly my childhood home, but more for me, this trip is about being in a foreign country, a place I have not seen for 44 years, reminding me of a little girl with big dreams and happy eyes and a snaggletooth grin. I will take her hand and fall in love in Paris.