Wednesday, April 15, 2015

April 6, 2015 -- A Sailor Looks at Fifty (Apologies to Jimmy Buffett) -- Tilloo Cay, Abacos, Bahamas

My Captain is 50 years old today; for just a few months, I will be only six years older than him, rather than 7.  My mother was older than my father, just by a 13 months, but the time between May 24 (her birthday) and June 1 (his birthday), we used to give her such grief about being TWO WHOLE YEARS older than my father.  A funny coincidence, because my other sisters are married to younger men, too. 

So Gary turned 50.  I made him a birthday biscuit as I had no cake makings on board.  No birthday candles either, so we stuck a piece of craft store dowel in the biscuit, lit it, and serenaded him rather badly, but he smiled through it all.

Later, we took a short hop from over to Cracker P's for lunch, which, of course, as is our luck, was not open for another two days.  So we did a U-turn in the dinghy and tied up at Lubber's Landing to check it out as it was right next door to Cracker P's.  Now, we wanted to go to Cracker P's because of the history involved; apparently, this guy, in a legal dispute over a chicken, shot a sheriff somewhere in the United States.  In running from the law, he made his way to the Bahamas and wound up living as a hermit on Lubber's Quarter, what was then a small uninhabited cay.  Locals knew him as the "Naked Man" who came in occasionally for supplies without the benefit of clothing.  We don't know if it's true, but it was on the internet, so it must be.

Lubber's was a great second choice; we ordered a rum drink for me, a Kalik for Gary, and water for Elliott.  We started with cauliflower, breaded and deep-fried, smothered in a lovely spicy Bahamian sauce.  The guys had tuna burgers and I had an awesome salad, with dressing that had a hint of heat, too.  It was so good.  I get salads whenever I can because lettuce just doesn't keep well on a boat.  Cabbage is good and we use it all the time, but cabbage is just not lettuce.

I was keeping my eye on an occupied table the whole time we were ordering and waiting and as soon as they occupants got up, I was on it like a fly on, oh well, you know what I mean.  Kind of in a corner, it was a U-shaped couch with wide seats and large fluffy pillows abutting a table right down the center.  With the straw mat on the walls and the tropical breeze wafting through slatted windows, it was a perfect afternoon of drinking, eating, and people watching.

We lounged around long enough to close down the place, at which point, we were asked kindly to clear the premises.  We took the dinghy over Cracker P's beach, where we figured that he wouldn't mind our trespassing on their off day.  As we walked up the beach, a woman and man came out of the gate that said "Private," and the man got into a boat a left.  We chatted with the woman, who turned out to be the owner.  She said, "We'll be open on Wednesday."  We asked whether we could take the beach trail to the other side of the island, and she said, "Sure; just be sure to reenter the trailhead at the two palm trees." Good advice.

We noticed that she was recovering from an ankle injury; she said that in the 15 years that she's been living there, she'd never had a problem, but on a recent walk on the trail, her foot got caught under a tree root and she ended up having a break.  She was still nursing it as it was tender in the last stages of healing.  I know that feeling.

She looked at my shoes and said that I should be okay; I'm guessing flip-flops would have been out of the question.  Once we entered the trail, it felt like we were in a tropical jungle; birdsong and bugs hit us from all sides.  I got aggravated because I kept hearing new bird sounds, but could not see the birds to take a photo to get them identified.  There are several bird species here that are not found anywhere else in the world and they were being camera shy.  (My friend R. Bruce would certainly know how to get them to come out and pose, I'm sure!)

It was hot and still on the trail and you had to pay attention; roots snaked across the trail every which way and rounded coral heads popped up like the game "Whack-a-Mole," surprising you at every turn.

The water on the other side was flat calm, low tide.  We saw some interesting holes in the sand that were dug by larger animals than the crabs were are used to, so we walked with our heads down in case we ran into any of these strange digging animals. 

A little ways down the beach, there was a nice wooden lounge and a flotsam-fabricated bar called Cracker G's Tiki Bar.  Don't know if people really used it as a beach hangout, but Elliott stopped by to take a call on the shell phone.

It was a good day for a birthday.  When we got back to the boat, I checked Facebook as I'd been looking forward to connecting with Captain Angie Wilson again--we had first run into her at Riviera Beach (she was the one who visited us bearing ice for a Christmas present). 


She told me where she'd been giving her sailing lessons out of and we were only about 8 miles away!  I asked Gary whether we could go see her even though it would be changing his plans a bit; he was a little hesitant, but since we also had some provisioning to do, he agreed to the sail to Marsh Harbor tomorrow.  Angie and I made plans to meet for dinner.  Yay!

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