Monday, April 6, 2015

March 25 and 26, 2015 -- Crossing the Grand Bahama Bank

We crossed a great expanse of water and then anchored for the night near a shoal because there is still a great expanse of water to go until we reach the Berry Islands.  This shoal was chosen to help us ride out any waves and it's the middle of nowhere and the sky and sea meet at a point my eyes cannot discern.  The water was very flat today and so we motored most of the way.  The water is still flat and feels like the calm before the storm.  It's weird sitting on a boat, swaying back and forth with the sea's rhythm and not being able to see land anywhere on the horizon.

Settling down for the night, the wind picked up and we had a bumpy ride there on out.  It was good for the next day's sailing though and Gary was in high spirits as the boat took to the wind and waves with glee.  Nalani is a super boat and her weight helps to make the wave riding a little more tolerable than it would in a lighter vessel.

Most of the day, we rode smoothly with the waves and only when the wind direction shifted slightly, did we get the pounding into the surf.  Let me tell you, going to the head in the middle of the pounding of the surf is a very interesting proposition.

We left at dawn and let Elliott sleep as he's been reading like a maniac at night, which I love.  He's into the third book in this Orson Scott Card trilogy and he can't put the books down, so sometimes I'll find him at 2 in the morning, reading, reading, reading.
He finally got up and described a levitating experience in his bunk from some of the surf riding that the boat was doing; he swore he was lifted up in the air.  After that, his magazines came onto the bed and covered him.  It wasn't uncomfortable until his 3-inch thick history and biology books decided to join them!

I knitted, rolled yarn from skein to ball (with Elliott's help), did crossword puzzles (which now Elliott loves), and played games on my iPad to pass the time.  Long passages are not my friend; I have the motorboat mentality, I guess, of trips; a little while on the water is good, but hours and hours try my sanity.

Elliott finally yelled, "Land Ho!"  A few hours later, we had anchored outside the island in a little bit of protected area.  We dinghied into waters further in and Elliott and Gary checked out the island's "blue hole," which is just that, a hole in the sea bed that is deep, deep, deep. 

I used to want to be an oceanographer--I was crazy in love with the idea of Jacques Cousteau and what he and his family did for a living; I can't believe that now considering my fright of going in the water.  And I must have watched too many sci-fi movies growing up because all I could imagine living in the blue hole would be blind fish and eels and scary monsters waiting to gobble me up!

They said they saw a few fish, nothing spectacular.  I would think you'd need a full SCUBA gear to explore it properly.  They also snorkeled near shore looking for the elusive Bahamian lobster, but it proved especially elusive.

We got back to the boat and our reading and researching and doing history (Elliott's learning about the Age of Enlightment  (doesn't every age have one of those?)). Anyway, I'm taking a more active role with his school work and so we discuss what he's reading now.  I hope it helps him retain information better than just reading.

The wind was already a little wild yesterday during the day, but nightfall brought worse.  Gusts made our boat bounce heavily in the surf and the dinghy got slapped about quite a bit, too.  It went on all night.  Our cabin is in the aft portion of the boat and all those slaps and bounces and howling winds are magnified.  The sound of the wind is the worst; while in the cockpit, it doesn't sound too bad.  But down below, everything is magnified and your imagination takes over.

Not much sleep to be had by any of us, I fear.  Gary slept in the cockpit so that he could 
keep an eye on things; our anchor held well, thankfully.  But there's always that fear that a wild wind will tear it loose and we'd be dashed upon the rocks.  And the rocks around here are not smooth boulders; they are coral and volcanic shards coming up out of the earth.  Scary.

I got up before dawn and had a mini-breakdown; I'm just not experiencing the stress as the guys do.  Especially in the dark.  Daylight changes everything and my eyes help my brain make logic of what is going on. Dark, especially here where everything is limited lighting (which is good for the environment), makes the imagination go wild.

Finally, I just passed out on the salon settee and fell into a fitful sleep.  Gary tried to wake me to help with motoring into the harbor (why we couldn't go there in the first place, I don't know), but I asked that he wake Elliott to help.

We came into a canal before making the harbor and even though we can still hear and feel some of the wind, it is so much quieter and I feel safer here.  Boats have been coming in and going on, a few jet skiers have been circling, we even saw a Canadian boat here that I'd seen tied up on the wall of the fuel dock area of Islamorada months ago.  We found out later that they were headed out to run their water-maker in clearer water.


We will be visiting the town here in a little bit and then checking into the marina, which gets good marks from other cruisers; when we called yesterday for a slip, they said they could give us one if we stayed three days, not the two we had asked for--someone's been teaching the upsell here!.  In town, there is supposed to be a bakery, a telephone store (which Gary is excited about), a grocery or two, and other shops that sound like a nice calm afternoon.  Let's hope so.

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